By Angela Trakoshis and Deanna Pai
Bad news first: There's no secret ingredient or miracle gadget that makes scars totally disappear. The good news? Using the best acne scar treatments can still significantly diminish the discoloration and texture a blemish can leave behind. We asked several dermatologists to recommend the most effective acne scar treatments that'll help reduce the appearance of acne scars with consistent use. China Pico Laser Factory
Why It's Worth It: This treatment is composed of 95% silicones, which smooth out irregular surfaces. The remaining 5% consists of complexion-calming allantoin, fatty acids (derived from sunflower seed oils) to boost moisture, and silica for a seamless, comfortable application. The product is a favorite of board-certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon Catherine Chang, MD, who is based in Los Angeles. "I recommend using an occlusive moisturizer with ingredients like silicone to soften the scar, in conjunction with in-office treatments like steroid injections or laser resurfacing treatments to reduce the scar's height and size over time," she says.
Editor Tip: It works best on newer or more recent scars, so start using it as soon as a pimple has begun healing.
Key Ingredients: Silicone, allantoin, fatty acids
Who It's For: People prone to depressed acne scars (versus dark spots)
Why It's Worth It: Beta hydroxy acid, a.k.a. salicylic acid, is a mainstay for treating acne — and using it post-breakout is also beneficial for exfoliating pigment buildup. Murad pairs it with vitamin C and cica in this serum, which promises to minimize the look of scar size, depth, texture, and discoloration in eight weeks. For immediate improvement, the formula's light-diffusing and blurring powders give a cosmetic kickstart to your skin, so it looks smoother and more even as soon as you apply it.
Editor Tip: To maximize the formula, apply it as a spot treatment to freshly healed breakouts.
Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, centella asiatica, vitamin C
Who It's For: People who have both textural scarring as well as dark spots
Why It's Worth It: When it comes to a long-term skin-care regimen to treat discoloration and uneven skin tone, consider this dermatologist favorite. The serum contains key ingredients such as brightening vitamin C, melatonin, and retinol alternative bakuchiol. Both vitamin C and melatonin serve as antioxidants, which can have a preventative effect against dark spots, while bakuchiol replicates the advantages of retinol without the typical side effects of dryness and irritation.
Editor Tip: The serum-in-oil formula combines two skin-care steps, making for a streamlined evening routine.
Key Ingredients: Vitamin C, melatonin, bakuchiol Who It's For: People who can't use or tolerate retinoids
Why It's Worth It: The dark horse of acne ingredients, azelaic acid can help to both fade the pigment of existing scars and keep future breakouts at bay. (It also doubles as an antioxidant and can help minimize redness — just saying.) This formula also has a potent dose of the ingredient alongside a soothing cream-gel base.
Editor Tip: Azelaic acid is pregnancy-safe, so it's a great option if you're not able to use a retinoid.
Who It's For: People with red-toned post-acne marks
Why It's Worth It: Indents in the skin can be hard to hide, which is why this formula is so genius. It functions as a makeup primer that fills in the depressions with silicone, giving skin a smooth, even texture with a soft-focus finish. It also offers benefits for the long haul with retinol and peptides, which work overtime to minimize scarring.
Editor Tip: This works well under makeup, making it especially helpful for a big event like a wedding.
Key Ingredients: Silicone, peptides, retinol
Who It's For: Anyone who wants their scars to disappear ASAP
Why It's Worth It: New York City-based dermatologist Hadley King, MD, points to this serum as a good option, since it lightens dark spots caused by scarring with the blend of vitamin C, niacinamide, and lactic acid in the formula. They each work in different ways to tackle excess pigment, making for a comprehensive approach to discoloration. Plus, it’s also infused with peptides, which can help promote collagen production.
Editor Tip: This is gentle enough that you can use it twice a day for the best results.
Key Ingredients: Vitamin C, peptides, niacinamide
Who It's For: People who are also looking to tackle signs of premature aging
Why It's Worth It: For a quick fix, look no further than this 2023 Best of Beauty Award winner, which packs a potent 30% concentration of vitamin C. It has a creamy texture that doesn't leave skin feeling dry or tight and is infused with nourishing ingredients like sea buckthorn oil and ceramides — which help bolster the skin barrier. It's an effective treatment for all-over discoloration and dullness.
Editor Tip: While this weekly mask can amp up results, pair it with a daily serum or lotion for the best effect.
Key Ingredients: Vitamin C, ceramides, sea buckthorn oil
Who It's For: People who want to supplement an existing brightening routine
Why It's Worth It: One part antioxidant serum, one part moisturizer, this lightweight cream can tackle all types of discoloration, be it post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or sun spots. It deploys tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (a stabilized form of vitamin C) with other brighteners to even out skin tone while preventing excess pigment production. On the hydration front, it also contains glycerin, which as a humectant is able to draw water into skin. It's also fragrance-free, making it ideal for sensitive skin types.
Editor Tip: If your skin is on the drier side — or the weather is cooler — you can top it with a heavier moisturizer.
Key Ingredients: Vitamin C, glycerin, peptides
Who It's For: People who want an all-in-one product
Why It's Worth It: King recommends this bi-phase formula, which is designed specifically for melanin-rich skin; it contains pro-retinol and niacinamide to help reduce dark spots without risking irritation. "It also contains hexylresorcinol, which helps to brighten skin, as well as vitamin E [to soothe skin]," she adds.
Editor Tip: Darker skin tones are more prone to hyperpigmentation, so a dedicated formula is worth the addition.
Key Ingredients: Niacinamide, vitamin E, pro-retinol
Who It's For: Anyone who's prone to hyperpigmentation
Why It's Worth It: You can still experience acne even with dry skin — and if that's the case, this cream can help. Designed to help skin recover after a breakout, it pairs an encapsulated retinol with squalane, antioxidants, and peptides, which help deliver smooth, supple skin. That encapsulation helps minimize irritation, while the other ingredients support overall skin health.
Editor Tip: If you don't want retinol, consider the brand's Rescue Balm, which still offers healing peptides and moisturizers.
Key Ingredients: Retinol, squalane, resveratrol
Who It's For: People who have combination skin or are prone to dryness
Why It's Worth It: While this 2023 Best of Beauty Award winner might be an investment — of both money and time — it uses science-backed technology to clear breakouts, brighten skin, and promote collagen production. In other words, it takes an overarching approach to skin, thanks to a combination of red and blue LED lights. (The former targets skin texture, while the latter handles acne.) Plus, you only need to wear it for three minutes a day, making it relatively easy to slot into your routine.
Editor Tip: The mask allows you to run the red and blue lights simultaneously, so you can target multiple concerns at once.
Who It's For: People who already have a stacked topical skin-care routine
Why It's Worth It: These dots may be small, but each one contains 430 microneedles that dissolve into the skin, delivering brightening ingredients like ferulic acid, tranexamic acid, and niacinamide. Dr. Garshick says niacinamide in particular reduces inflammation and redness associated with acne and may also improve discoloration. "While the exact mechanism is unknown, it is thought to suppress melanosome transfer and reduce pigmentation," she says of the start ingredient.
Editor Tip: For the best results, you'll need to use these twice a week for two weeks.
Key Ingredients: Niacinamide, ferulic acid, tranexamic acid
Who It's For: People with a handful of dark spots (who don't need all-over brightening)
Why It's Worth It: Salicylic acid is one of the gold-standard ingredients for clearing a breakout, but don't dismiss this exfoliant once the pimples are gone — especially if they've left a mark. "Salicylic acid helps to eliminate dead skin cells and can help to improve hyperpigmentation and promote new skin cells, improving both tone and texture associated with scars," Dr. Garshick says. Plus, it's paired with glycolic acid in this toner, which is easy to swipe on post-cleansing.
Editor Tip: Follow this up with a moisturizer to prevent dryness, and don’t double up with other exfoliants.
Key Ingredients: Salicylic acid, glycolic acid
Who It's For: Acne-prone skin types who aren’t worried about dryness or sensitivity.
Why It's Worth It: What sets this serum apart from other retinol products — and made it a 2023 Best of Beauty Award winner — is the adapinoid, a new ingredient that serves as a precursor to adapalene (the only prescription-strength retinoid available in over-the-counter products). The 0.16% concentration is low enough to effectively treat both acne and acne scars without irritation — but as an extra buffer, the formula also includes niacinamide (which quells inflammation) and squalane (which moisturizes).
Editor Tip: Retinoids can reduce excess oil, too, meaning this can help take down shine.
Key Ingredients: Adapinoid, niacinamide, squalane
Who It's For: Those ready to graduate to a stronger retinoid than retinol
For starters, a lot of what you may think of as acne scarring is really post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or erythema — brown or red spots — rather than a permanent change in skin texture. "Scars and discoloration occur as a result of injury to the skin, and in the case of acne, the injury is related to excess oil production, inflammation, and bacteria," says New York City board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD. She also notes that when the skin tries to repair itself after a breakout, it can leave a red, pink, tan, or brown mark behind, depending on the blemish and the individual's skin tone.
"Pimples that scar usually have dead skin cells, oil, bacteria, fluid, and white blood cells in them," explains Boston-based board-certified dermatologist Papri Sarkar, MD, "These things take up space by stretching the skin and cause inflammation that can break down the pore that they're in and the surrounding skin."
Due to its inflammatory and bacterial aspects, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after acne is considered its own category in the world of discoloration and scarring. "This differs from sun spots or hyperpigmentation that are the result of an increase in melanin from UV exposure and environmental stressors — [both of which can] lead to free-radical damage that can manifest as brown spots," Dr. Sarkar explains.
If there's been too much skin warping by the original pimple, you may have indented or depressed scars; these are divided into ice pick scars, rolling scars, and boxcar scars, depending on their structure. Or on the other end of the texture spectrum, when there’s more scar tissue created during healing, "you can get an excess of skin added that forms a bump," says Dr. Sarkar. These are called hypertrophic scars, or raised scars, and include keloids. "Either way, acne scars cause a textural change that leaves hills and valleys on the face that bother people greatly,” she says.
Acne scars are slightly different from other pigmentation and texture changes. Many people can have acne without any resulting scab or textural change. "The lesions that tend to form scars are the ones that are really inflamed or really large," says Dr. Sarkar. She notes that the deeper, more painful acne bumps that have a lot of content within them tend to be the ones that leave a mark or scab behind. "The worse the acne, the more likely your skin is to have acne scarring," Dr. Sakar adds.
The best way to treat discoloration quickly is with strategic skin care for acne scars. For starters, there are many at-home treatment options — including gels, acne scar creams, and acne spot treatments — that can bring blemish-induced discoloration down and also help treat existing breakouts. Dr. Sarkar says that collagen-building ingredients will generally help acne scars, so she looks to retinoids, vitamin C, and alpha hydroxy acids (also known as AHAs, which include lactic and glycolic acids) when treating her patients.
"Retinoids, a vitamin A derivative, help to increase collagen production, even out skin tone, and prevent future acne," she explains. "Vitamin C is a brightening agent and an antioxidant, and it has been shown to build collagen as well. Glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids help to resurface the skin to even out skin tone."
Dr. Garshick says the potential removal of acne scars typically depends on the type of scar and the extent of the scarring. "For example, faint discoloration may fade with time and can certainly be improved with topical treatments alone, while deep scarring won't go away with [just] topicals," she says.
The right in-office procedure depends on the type of scar in question. Chemical peels, laser treatments, or microdermabrasion can help tackle post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Meanwhile, fillers and modalities that boost collagen production, like radiofrequency, can help fill in the depressions that make up atrophic scars. Subcision, in which the dermatologist cuts out the scar, is also an option. Ultimately, though, it's best to approach acne scars with multiple treatment modalities that address the different components, so work with your dermatologist to sort out the best regimen for your level of scarring.
"It's also important to note that using too many treatments at once, using extraction tools by yourself, and over-exfoliating can make acne scars worse," says Dr. Gonzalez. "Doing these things could cause inflammation, which may lead to a new acne outbreak. In addition, the skin may become red, which may highlight the appearance of an [existing] acne scar." Finally, don't skip sunscreen; since sun exposure can contribute to post-acne dark spots, using a broad-spectrum formula with a minimum of SPF 30 is key.
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